FERRARA was the residence of the Este dukes, an eccentric dynasty that ranked as a major political force throughout Renaissance times. The Este kept the main artists of the day in commissions and built a town, which, despite a relatively small population, was one of the most elegant urban creations of the period. It's a popular stop for tourists travelling up from Bologna to Venice, but they rarely stay, leaving the centre enjoyably crowd-free by the evening Half an hour by train from Bologna, FERRARA was the residence of the Este dukes, an eccentric dynasty that ranked as a major political force throughout Renaissance times. The Este kept the main artists of the day in commissions and built a town, which despite a relatively small population, was one of the most elegant urban creations of the period. It's a popular stop for tourists travelling up from Bologna to Venice, but they rarely stay, leaving the centre enjoyably crowd-free by the evening.